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- Non-surgical cosmetic procedures or 'tweakments' are growing in popularity.
- Sonal Chavda-Sitaram, a pharmacist with a Ph.D, said she would only do one type of tweakement.
- Microneedling is FDA-approved for treating acne scars and lessening wrinkles.
From CO2 laser skin resurfacing to platelet-rich plasma therapy, there are countless "tweakments" that promise to make your skin look flawless.
But Sonal Chavda-Sitaram, a pharmacist with a Ph.D in topical and transdermal drug delivery, told Business Insider there's one she recommends above the rest: microneedling.
For the uninitiated, tweakements are non-surgical cosmetic procedures, like fillers or laser treatments. The number performed worldwide grew by nearly 2 million between 2017 and 2020. The number of dermal filler procedures and body procedures is expected to hit 23 million and 14.6 million, respectively, by the end of 2025, according to Allergan Aesthetics, one of the leading providers of Botox.
Chavda-Sitaram, 43, who believes the most important part of skincare is leading a healthy lifestyle, said: "There are lots of new trendy procedures, but for me, microneedling is probably the one that I find is most effective and makes sense in terms of the science behind what you're doing. "
She has had microneedling twice, but would do it more often if she had the time.
Microneedling stimulates collagen production
Microneedling involves puncturing the skin with tiny needles to make micro-injuries. When the body responds by healing the holes, it produces collagen, the primary building block of skin that we naturally make less of as we age. This can lead to smoother, tighter-looking, and more even-toned skin.
The skin barrier, the outermost layer that keeps toxins and bacteria out of the body, is very good at its job, Chavda-Sitaram said. So most skincare products don't reach the deeper layers. But, by creating "micro-channels" in the dermis, which lies beneath the skin barrier, products can be absorbed more deeply, she said.
Microneedling is generally considered safe and effective, and has been cleared by the FDA for use as a treatment to improve the appearance of facial acne scars, wrinkles, and abdominal scars in people aged 22 and above. The skin might be red, swollen, and feel tight or dry after treatment, but this usually resolves itself within a few days.
Chavda-Sitaram tried microneedling in preparation for a big event, but depending on your goals, you might need multiple sessions over weeks or months to see results.
An inside-out approach
Facial treatments can be incredibly effective, Chavda-Sitaram said, but they work best when the skin is already optimized from within. Eating a balanced diet, getting enough sleep and exercise, as well as managing stress, are all important for skin health.
"When you undertake these invasive procedures, you're essentially damaging your tissue and then waiting for it to heal and rebuild," she said. "If your skin doesn't have the necessary building blocks, these treatments are just going to be very expensive and not as effective."
"I'm not anti-procedure at all, but I am pro-foundation," Chavda-Sitaram said.
